Hong Kong

Overview

Hong Kong is a city of edges. Seven million people live on 1,100 square kilometres, three quarters of which is country park, so the boundary between a 60-storey tower block and a hiking trail is often a single flight of concrete steps. It is a place best understood vertically — by tram, escalator, ferry and lift.

Things to see and do

Four things worth building an itinerary around, rather than a list of everything.

• 01

  The Star Ferry

  Ten minutes and a few dollars across Victoria Harbour, still the best introduction to the skyline anyone has designed.

• 02

  Dragon's Back

  An eight-kilometre ridge walk above Shek O with the South China Sea on both sides, forty minutes from Central.

• 03

  Tai O stilt village

  A Lantau fishing settlement built over the water, where shrimp paste is still dried on the walkways.

• 04

  Temple Street after dark

  Fortune tellers, clay-pot rice and Cantonese opera performed to a standing audience.

When to go

The usable window is Oct–Dec. July is typically the warmest month and January the wettest; the shoulder weeks either side of the peak give you most of the weather at a fraction of the price.

Getting there and around

International arrivals concentrate on Victoria City, and for most visitors that is the sensible entry point even when it is not the first place you want to be.

Overland

Long-distance buses cover more of the country than the railway, run more often, and cost less. Trains, where they exist, are more comfortable for the same money.

Local transport

In Victoria City, use the metered taxi or a ride app rather than negotiating at the kerb, and carry small notes — change is a genuine problem in most of the country. Intercity travel is worth booking a day ahead during the Oct–Dec peak.

Food and drink

Eat where the turnover is fastest. In Hong Kong that usually means the market stalls at lunch and the neighbourhood places that open at seven and stop serving when the pot is empty.

Portions, timings and the position of the main meal in the day all vary from what you are used to. Ask what the kitchen is doing well today rather than reading down the menu, and order what the next table is eating.

Passport and visa

Current position: Visa-free 7–180 days depending on passport.

Most nationalities need a passport valid for six months beyond the date of entry, with at least two blank pages. Onward or return tickets are checked at the gate more often than at the border, and airlines apply the rule more strictly than immigration does.

• Check your own government’s travel advice as well as the destination’s rules — they update at different speeds.
• Where an e-visa or travel authorisation applies, apply through the official government portal. Search results are full of paid intermediaries.
• Keep a photo of your passport page and any approval separately from the documents themselves.

Money and costs

The currency is the Hong Kong dollar (HKD). Card acceptance is normal in cities and patchy outside them; carry enough cash for two days of small purchases at all times.

Tipping

Rounding up is normal and welcomed; a set percentage is not universal. Check whether service is already on the bill before adding to it.

Health and safety

Standard travel advice applies: routine vaccinations up to date, comprehensive insurance that covers the activities you actually intend to do, and a pharmacy plan for the ordinary things rather than the dramatic ones.

• Carry oral rehydration salts. Most travel stomach upsets resolve in a day, and fluid loss is the part that causes trouble.
• Check whether your insurance covers motorbike hire — many policies exclude it by default.
• Save the local emergency number to your phone on arrival, and note the nearest hospital to where you are staying.

Petty theft in busy tourist areas is the most common problem visitors report. Situational awareness handles nearly all of it.

Culture and etiquette

The official language is Cantonese, English. Learning six words — hello, please, thank you, yes, no, and the number two — changes how a trip goes far more than the effort suggests.

An Octopus card pays for the tram, the ferry, convenience stores and most noodle shops. Buy one at the airport.