Why go
Kyoto was the imperial capital for over a thousand years and still behaves like one: guarded, formal, quietly proud. The famous sites are genuinely crowded between 9am and 5pm, which makes early mornings and the northern hills the whole strategy.
Five things to do
- 01
Fushimi Inari before 7am
The ten thousand gates, to yourself.
- 02
Kaiseki in a machiya
Twelve courses that track the season.
- 03
Philosopher's Path in blossom
Two kilometres of canal-side cherry.
- 04
Nishiki market
Five blocks of pickles, knives and tofu.
- 05
Tea in Uji
Where matcha has been grown since the 12th century.
Neighbourhoods
Higashiyama
Kiyomizu-dera down to Gion, best walked at dawn.
Arashiyama
Bamboo, monkeys and the Hozu river.
Nishijin
Weaving workshops and machiya townhouses.
Ōhara
A valley of moss temples an hour north by bus.
Getting around
Buy the transport card on arrival — every city on this list has one, and it is cheaper than single fares within about four journeys. Walking covers more than the map suggests: most of the districts above are within thirty minutes of each other on foot.
Taxis and ride apps are worth it late at night and when you are carrying luggage. Everything else is faster on the metro, the tram or the ferry, in that order.
Where to eat
The rule that holds in Kyoto is the rule that holds everywhere: eat at the busy place, at the hour the locals eat, and order the thing the kitchen makes most of. Reserve for dinner in the districts above; lunch rarely needs it.
Two days here
- Morning: Fushimi Inari before 7am
- Afternoon: walk Higashiyama
- Evening: Philosopher's Path in blossom
- Day two: Tea in Uji
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Places to stay in Kyoto, priced by each site in its own currency.
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