The case for going in November

Shoulder season used to mean May and September. Demand has since flattened those months out, and the genuine off-peak in most European cities now runs from November through mid-March, minus the Christmas market weeks.

The arithmetic is straightforward. Hotel rates in Rome, Lisbon and Prague fall by a third or more; museum slots that require booking six weeks ahead in July are available the same morning; and restaurants that will not seat two people without a reservation in summer have space at eight.

What you lose is daylight and terrace weather. In practice this reshapes the day rather than ruining it — galleries in the afternoon, an early dinner, and the acceptance that you will not be sitting outside for three hours.

There is a second, less-discussed benefit. Off-season is when residents get their city back, which means the queue in the bakery is a local queue and the person serving you has time to talk. That is the version of a place worth travelling for.

The exception is anywhere whose appeal is specifically outdoor and seasonal: coastal Greece in January is closed rather than quiet. Check whether the ferries run before you book anything.